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MarkBell

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Reply with quote  #61 
This is great!  Thanks for writing up documentation, I know a lot of folks really appreciate having references to look at.  Also - let's see it in action! [smile]

As far as fade to black - does change= "-25" not work for you?  It works just fine in my DMX scripts:
 <event type="PLAYER_SHIELDS_RAISED" continuous="no">
 
<!-- steady blue light -->
<timeblock mseconds="1500">
<setvalue index="5" value="100" change="-32"/>
<!-- red   value of first light box -->
<setvalue index="6" value="100" change="-32"/>
<!-- green value of first light box -->
<setvalue index="7" value="100" change="66"/>
<!-- blue  value of first light box -->
<setvalue index="8" value="255" change="0"/>
<!-- red   value of first light box -->
<setvalue index="9" value="255" change="0"/>
<!-- green value of first light box -->
<setvalue index="10" value="126" change="-84"/>
<!-- blue  value of first light box -->
</timeblock>
</event>

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Note - this is in no way intended to be an official position of Thom or Artemis, as I am not an official representative of the creator or game.
davr

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Reply with quote  #62 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wilki
For everyone who wants to use multiple LED strips, and is asking about using more PWM channels and adding more transistors - Is there a time when you would want 1 strip red and one strip blue for example? For me, i will use the strips to give the whole room an ambient lighting effect, so the whole room is white, then red alert - the whole room is red for example.
Where I'm going with this, is that if you want all of the LEDs to be the same colour at once, but just want more LEDs, then just piggy back the extra LED strips onto the same transistors/PWM outputs. 
As davr was saying before, the LED strips draw 0.66A per colour, and the transistors can handle 3A so you could have 4 x 5M strips on just those 3 x TIP120 transistors(you will need heat sinks on the transistors at this point though).

EDIT: I just found that on the ebay page for the 5M strip I bought, says it draws 1.2A per meter, so for 5M that's 2A per transistor, so you will need larger transistors.

EDIT #2: davr, the link that you provided on your first post here seems to indicate that the strip should draw 1.2A per meter too!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hot-5M-5050-SMD-Non-Waterproof-RGB-300-LED-Strip-24-44-KEY-IR-5A-Power-Supply-/140953492973?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=&hash=item20d17b9ded

Was that the exact same one that you purchased? If it's correct that i'm going to need a 6A power supply to run this thing! which is OK, i'll just use an old computer PSU. 


The 'per meter' rating includes all three colors. But we have a separate transistor per color, so you can divide by three.
Wilki

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Reply with quote  #63 
I'm still waiting for my LED strip to arrive from ebay, but here is what I have so far:
[DSC_0091]
Wilki

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Reply with quote  #64 
Quote:
Originally Posted by davr
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wilki
For everyone who wants to use multiple LED strips, and is asking about using more PWM channels and adding more transistors - Is there a time when you would want 1 strip red and one strip blue for example? For me, i will use the strips to give the whole room an ambient lighting effect, so the whole room is white, then red alert - the whole room is red for example.
Where I'm going with this, is that if you want all of the LEDs to be the same colour at once, but just want more LEDs, then just piggy back the extra LED strips onto the same transistors/PWM outputs. 
As davr was saying before, the LED strips draw 0.66A per colour, and the transistors can handle 3A so you could have 4 x 5M strips on just those 3 x TIP120 transistors(you will need heat sinks on the transistors at this point though).

EDIT: I just found that on the ebay page for the 5M strip I bought, says it draws 1.2A per meter, so for 5M that's 2A per transistor, so you will need larger transistors.

EDIT #2: davr, the link that you provided on your first post here seems to indicate that the strip should draw 1.2A per meter too!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hot-5M-5050-SMD-Non-Waterproof-RGB-300-LED-Strip-24-44-KEY-IR-5A-Power-Supply-/140953492973?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=&hash=item20d17b9ded

Was that the exact same one that you purchased? If it's correct that i'm going to need a 6A power supply to run this thing! which is OK, i'll just use an old computer PSU. 


The 'per meter' rating includes all three colors. But we have a separate transistor per color, so you can divide by three.


Yeah that's true, but i'm thinking about the power supply too. 1.2A per meter for all 3 colours times 5 meters means you need a 6 amp power supply!!!
My guess is that the ebay listing is wrong. I'll measure the current draw when mine finally arrives from ebay land. 
davr

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Reply with quote  #65 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wilki
Quote:
Originally Posted by davr


The 'per meter' rating includes all three colors. But we have a separate transistor per color, so you can divide by three.


Yeah that's true, but i'm thinking about the power supply too. 1.2A per meter for all 3 colours times 5 meters means you need a 6 amp power supply!!!
My guess is that the ebay listing is wrong. I'll measure the current draw when mine finally arrives from ebay land. 


Oh huh, maybe you're right and my power supply is under powered. I might just be running my lights at half brightness? They are already awfully bright though.
Wilki

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Reply with quote  #66 
This is only using a third of the 5M LED strip [smile] very happy with this. Thanks for the idea and information davr!!!
[DSC_0156]
 
[DSC_0155] 
[DSC_0154] 
[DSC_0161] 

Wilki

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Reply with quote  #67 
Here you can see the Arduino DMX LED strip in action. This is using all 5M of the of LEDs. Plenty of light for the small room I am in, not sure how it would go in a larger room.
Zeustopher

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Reply with quote  #68 
I'm really interested in giving this a try! 

(I hope this is enough on topic to warrant just a reply instead of making my own thread.)

I am wondering if I could take a slightly different approach. You are using very simple rgb lights. I'm wondering if we can adapt the code you are using to accommodate 'addressable' LEDs (such as WS2811).

The reason I'm wondering is because I'd like to use the same LEDs for other projects (like some awesome Christmas tree lights!) but can't afford right now to buy completely separate supplies.

There are two libraries already available to drive WS2811 strips here: FastSPI and AdaFruit , but I want to get opinions on how easily (or how difficult) it will be to integrate those libraries into the DMXSerial code which is being used here.

Does anyone have any suggestions? Tips? Pointers? Yes - I've already done that and here is my code? ;-)

Thanks for inspiring this cheap setup! I saw a video of a bridge on YouTube and caught the bug a little bit but with finances tight, I want to make it 'justifiable' as not just for Artemis but also for other projects I've been wanting to do as well.

-- Zeustopher
davr

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Reply with quote  #69 
Yes it should be possible. I think Arduino is not ideal for driving a ton of WS2811 chips due to the weird timing requirements, but just a few meters should probably be fine. You'll be writing a bit of code, but not a huge amount if the libraries are any good
stovepipez

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Reply with quote  #70 
So here's my question.  

If i run an Arduino with 2 strips from my "main screen" computer:

Can I then run an Arduino from say my nav computer to also run 2 strips?


The idea here is to run the front and rear shield strips from the nav station.  Main lighting and the fog machine from the main screen (hacked rock band stage kit).  Run the rumble motors from tactical ect.


stovepipez

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Reply with quote  #71 
Ok question #2.

I want to make mechanical controllers for Artemis.  At the very least for the engineering station.  No many sliders, so many buttons!  

How sweet would a steampunk eng console be?

I am not a programmer though.  How would you go about translating the mechanical input (mostly potentiometers) to something that the game could use?

Pipe dream?  Long dark rabbit hole?


davr

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Reply with quote  #72 
Quote:
Originally Posted by stovepipez
So here's my question.  

If i run an Arduino with 2 strips from my "main screen" computer:

Can I then run an Arduino from say my nav computer to also run 2 strips?


The idea here is to run the front and rear shield strips from the nav station.  Main lighting and the fog machine from the main screen (hacked rock band stage kit).  Run the rumble motors from tactical ect.




As far as I know, the arduino has to be connected to a computer running either the server or the "main screen" station. I could be wrong though, I haven't actually tried it on other stations. If it requires main screen, you could always run two stations on one computer
davr

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Reply with quote  #73 
Quote:
Originally Posted by stovepipez
Ok question #2.

I want to make mechanical controllers for Artemis.  At the very least for the engineering station.  No many sliders, so many buttons!  

How sweet would a steampunk eng console be?

I am not a programmer though.  How would you go about translating the mechanical input (mostly potentiometers) to something that the game could use?

Pipe dream?  Long dark rabbit hole?




There's two ways you can go about this:

1. Send keyboard or joystick presses -- this is super easy to program and works for any action that has a built in hotkey
2. Manipulate the mouse -- this is harder to program correctly, but will work for any control you can manipulate via mouse

I got #2 mostly working, see this thread:
http://artemis.forumchitchat.com/post/using-usb-midi-input-device-nanokontrol2-for-engineering-console-6487613
stovepipez

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Reply with quote  #74 
I guess that my idea would be a bit of reinventing the wheel.

Are the sliders on that unit (or are they in general) motorized?  eg I hit a preset and the sliders will move to the pre set.

That is what I am looking to do.  
davr

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Reply with quote  #75 
The device I used is cheap and is not motorized (eg no presets). someone else in that thread used a bigger more expensive mixer that DID have motorized sliders, and had it hooked up to presets, which was pretty cool.
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