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Cloudscout

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Posts: 4
Reply with quote  #46 
vfrdirk brought his completed kit over yesterday and it was a hit.  I just ordered components to build my own.  I'm planning on a two-strip setup.
ricka

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Posts: 148
Reply with quote  #47 
Could we get a relisting of the ebay sources? I want to be sure I get the right power supply [smile]
Cloudscout

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Reply with quote  #48 
I've stepped up my plans a bit.

I'll be building a two-strip setup plus a rumble box.

I'm starting with essentially the same circuit plan in the original post but will be using pins 3, 5 and 6 to control the second RGB strip.  I will also be tapping pin 12 which will control an SSR-25DA solid-state relay.  That relay will control a pair of Dayton 10C903 vibrating motors, one attached to each of the two sofas in my theater.  Those will be probably be triggered by the jump and damage cues.

I've scheduled another party for early December to test it all out.
CrazyLefty

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Reply with quote  #49 
I received a PWM shield sof controlling 16 servo motors as part of Make: Robot Hacks program, and was wondering if this shield could be re-purposed when not walking my litttle quadruped around.  I figure there's got to be some way to ulilize the library to add 14 more PWM channels, maybe I'll bring it one night to tinker with.
CrazyLefty

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Posts: 9
Reply with quote  #50 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cloudscout
I've stepped up my plans a bit.

I'll be building a two-strip setup plus a rumble box.

I'm starting with essentially the same circuit plan in the original post but will be using pins 3, 5 and 6 to control the second RGB strip.  I will also be tapping pin 12 which will control an SSR-25DA solid-state relay.  That relay will control a pair of Dayton 10C903 vibrating motors, one attached to each of the two sofas in my theater.  Those will be probably be triggered by the jump and damage cues.

I've scheduled another party for early December to test it all out.


Oh man those rumble motors sound like a blast!!!  A full bridge setup should definitely have one of those under each station!  

And where's our invite to the party??? [wink]
davr

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Posts: 49
Reply with quote  #51 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ricka
Could we get a relisting of the ebay sources? I want to be sure I get the right power supply [smile]


Just click on the part names in the original post, they are URLs. You just need to make sure the voltage matches what your strip needs, and that the amperage is equal or greater than the max draw of the strip. If the strip only lists watts, you can get amps = watts / volts
ricka

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Reply with quote  #52 
Ah missed that! Thanks
Cain Fortea

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Reply with quote  #53 

Is there anything on the PC side you need to do to get the arduino recognized as a DMX device?

 

I've downloaded and used the DMXSerial library that most people say they use, and it's notes say that it is compatible with the Arduino Leonardo explicitly.  However, when I upload my sketch, and start Artemis, i'm receiving no data to the Arduino unit.  I've tried a few other DMX software suites to see if it's something specific to Artemis, but none of them recognize the leonardo as a unit.

davr

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Reply with quote  #54 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cain Fortea

Is there anything on the PC side you need to do to get the arduino recognized as a DMX device?

 

I've downloaded and used the DMXSerial library that most people say they use, and it's notes say that it is compatible with the Arduino Leonardo explicitly.  However, when I upload my sketch, and start Artemis, i'm receiving no data to the Arduino unit.  I've tried a few other DMX software suites to see if it's something specific to Artemis, but none of them recognize the leonardo as a unit.



You need to use the Arduino Duemilanove, any other arduino wont work. This is due to the inflexible way Artemis was coded, it only looks for the FTDI chip, and has no settings to let you pick another serial port.

OR, if you don't want to buy another arudino, you can use a FTDI USB-to-Serial adaptor, connected to the RX/TX pins on the arduino. But it costs almost as much as the old arduino on ebay so I just got that.
Cain Fortea

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Posts: 8
Reply with quote  #55 

So, as long as my board has the FTDI chip then it should work?  

 

Redboard puts out a version of an Arduino board that uses that chip for the USB interface, I'm wondering if that would work.

Wilki

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Posts: 48
Reply with quote  #56 
For everyone who wants to use multiple LED strips, and is asking about using more PWM channels and adding more transistors - Is there a time when you would want 1 strip red and one strip blue for example? For me, i will use the strips to give the whole room an ambient lighting effect, so the whole room is white, then red alert - the whole room is red for example.
Where I'm going with this, is that if you want all of the LEDs to be the same colour at once, but just want more LEDs, then just piggy back the extra LED strips onto the same transistors/PWM outputs. 
As davr was saying before, the LED strips draw 0.66A per colour, and the transistors can handle 3A so you could have 4 x 5M strips on just those 3 x TIP120 transistors(you will need heat sinks on the transistors at this point though).

EDIT: I just found that on the ebay page for the 5M strip I bought, says it draws 1.2A per meter, so for 5M that's 2A per transistor, so you will need larger transistors.

EDIT #2: davr, the link that you provided on your first post here seems to indicate that the strip should draw 1.2A per meter too!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hot-5M-5050-SMD-Non-Waterproof-RGB-300-LED-Strip-24-44-KEY-IR-5A-Power-Supply-/140953492973?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=&hash=item20d17b9ded

Was that the exact same one that you purchased? If it's correct that i'm going to need a 6A power supply to run this thing! which is OK, i'll just use an old computer PSU. 
luotinen

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Posts: 48
Reply with quote  #57 

My parts finally arrived! Only 2 months delivery time straight from China. [smile]

I built the two strip variant and promised to document the build. At some point I got a little bit carried away and forgot to document. Anyways here is a post documentation:

TOOLS:
- solder iron (cheap one OK)
- tin and soldering tools
- clamps to hold the board and wires
- universal meter (cheap one OK)
- wire cutters
- wire strippers
- crimper or pliers

PARTS:
- Arduino Duemilanove Atmega328 board
- Long (5 m) USB printer cable (USB A -> USB B)
- 2x not waterproof RGB led strips 12V (note ampers/meter value) 5 m 5050 RGB
- Strong 12V power supply (ampers depend on your strip lengths, buy 5A or 6A if unsure - also note polarity: + on inside)
- Power supply to 2-pin screw terminal (note polarity: + on inside) (optional)
- 2-pin screw terminal (you will need to butcher your PSU cable)
- 6 TIP120 transistors
- 6 1 kOhm resistors
- 1 prototyping circuit board
- 1 strip of pin headers
- cables (choose AWG based on led amperage, if in doubt choose AWG22*)
- female crimps (optional)
- hot shrink tubing (optional)
* remember that 12V wire will take full load and the color lines take much less

Instructions:
1. Order the parts
2. Secure the tools
3. Wait for a ridiculously long time
4. Study the wiring plan and understand it before you begin
5. Measure and cut the strips to your liking (cut at labeled points where the copper tabs are)
6. Solder the pin headers
7. Solder the resistors
8. Cut resistor excess legs
9. Solder the Base (B) of transistors
10. Solder the GND wire and Emitters (E) of transistors
11. Cut B and E excess legs
12. Solder the 12V, G, R, B wires to the strips
13. (optional) Female crimp the 12V, G, R, B wires
14. (optional) Slide in the hot shink tubing for both ends of the wires
15. Solder (or push the crimps) 12V, G, R, B wires
16. (optional) Screw the GND and 2x 12V wires to the PSU adapter
17. Cut the wires of the PSU and solder or screw them to GND and 12V
18. Use the multimeter and test everything
19. Install Arduino software
20. Plug in Arduino and run Blink
21. Upload led strip testing programs (top, bottom and combined)
22. Upload the modified DMX programming to support two strips
23. Backup and replace the DMXCommands.xml in Artemis/dat
24. Plug in, start Artemis and enjoy the light show!
25. Grab a beer - you've earned it! [smile]

luotinen

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Posts: 48
Reply with quote  #58 
01_parts_required.JPG The required parts
02_sidecart_shield.JPG This is a sidecart shield, because the components will not fit otherwise
03_wiring_plan.JPG The 2 strip wiring schematics
04_board_component_side.JPG How the component side should look
05_board_solder_side.JPG How the solder side should not look (poor solders and knife marks from separating the solders.. [biggrin])
06_PSU_2-pin_adapter.JPG If you don't want to butcher your PSU, just use an adapter

luotinen

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Posts: 48
Reply with quote  #59 
Here are:
DMXSerial library
LED test sequences
Modified DMXReceiver for two strips

Instructions:
0. Install Arduino software, plug in the board and power the strips
1. Open Arduino
2. Tools - Board - Duemilanove Atmega328
3. Open Blink
4. Upload
5. Upload led tests
6. Sketch - Import library - DMXSerial (folder)
7. Upload modified DMX receiver file
8. DONE!

 
Attached Files
zip DMXSerial.zip (10.19 KB, 63 views)
zip LED_test_356_91011.zip (1.68 KB, 53 views)
zip DmxSerialRecv2strips.zip (1.31 KB, 57 views)

luotinen

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Posts: 48
Reply with quote  #60 
Finally here is my DMXCommands.xml for two strips. Please edit and improve it freely and share your results with the community. Especially if you know a good way to fade to black (doesn't seem to support negative change-values?). Remeber to take a backup before replacing!

You can use the original DMXCommands.xml also, just modify the DMX receiver code to duplicate everything from channels 1, 2, 3 to both strips. If you don't then only one strip will react to the original file.

My contribution here is putting it all together and documenting it. All the hard work was done by people before me. Thank you all for making this possible! [smile]

PS. Sorry for lack of comments.. Just look at the code - not the comments.. [biggrin]

 
Attached Files
zip DMXcommands_two_strips.zip (4.67 KB, 60 views)

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