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ogremasch

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Reply with quote  #136 
What does it all connect to? Keyboard emulator? Leo bodnar board? Arduino? I gotta know more!
notsabbat

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Reply with quote  #137 

Oops, forgot to post the backside of the panel. It is all connected to an Arduino Leonardo, though it is more than I need and a Pro Micro ATmega32U4 would do just as well, be cheaper and take up way less space. The board is held on by an Arduino Una holder that I 3d printed. Eventually I will do cable management, but it is not this day!

20200229_154330.jpg


*edit*

I put my STls up if people are curious. Not sure how useful they will be for other people, but they are there if you want them. 

My V1 panels: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4193654

My V2 panel for Weapons: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4202376

I will update the version II with other panels as I make them, though I imagine that will be a long process. 



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Newcommerin

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Reply with quote  #138 
This is absolutly awesome.... *speechless*

Edit:

Found my voice again. [wink]
What "Filament" (I don't know if this is the right word for it) did you use for the glass like look?
Just ordered a 3D Printer and would be glad not to try out every "crstal clear"-promised-to-be... 

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Sorry, English is not my native language, I am German.
(* I wish I would live in America, I wish I would... *)
Any mistakes you can find, you can keep and with the spelling mistakes you can cook you an alphabet soup.

My Artemis Homepage: https://star-ship-academy.jimdo.com/
notsabbat

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Reply with quote  #139 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Newcommerin
This is absolutely awesome.... *speechless*

Edit:

Thank you!


Quote:
Originally Posted by Newcommerin

What "Filament" (I don't know if this is the right word for it) did you use for the glass like look?
Just ordered a 3D Printer and would be glad not to try out every "crstal clear"-promised-to-be... 


Its not the filament (That is the correct word), its the print bed that makes the panel look like that, not the material. It will be smooth like that with PLA as well.

I use a tempered glass bed on both of my printers.

Here is one from Amazon, but I don't know how ordering works in Germany.

https://www.amazon.com/Creality-3D-Tempered-Surface-310x310x4mm/dp/B07DTFG4W2/ref=sr_1_5?crid=8SLD5OZLG7NL&keywords=cr10+glass+bed&qid=1583451989&sprefix=cr10+glass+%2Caps%2C150&sr=8-5

There is a smooth side and a rougher side to the beds, I print on the smooth side and the side that is printed on the bed will be very smooth. A glass bed is also much easier to remove the prints from,  I would recommend them to anyone with a 3d printer. The type of PETG that I use is made by Inland, but I don't think it matters what brand you use (just don't use HatchBox, I have had nothing but trouble with their PETG).

The settings I use in Cura;
Use 7mm retraction
30mm/s print time
235C nozzle temp
70C bed temp
1.2mm walls, top and bottom
Combing mode: All

Feel free to ask if you have more questions.


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-Captain of the TSN Gungnir JN-001
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-My continuing bridge build:
http://artemis.forumchitchat.com/post/immersion-bridge-build-in-progress-7335195?pid=1290158413
notsabbat

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Reply with quote  #140 
Ok, so one of my goals with the weapons panel is to make the individual tubes/ ordnance light up depending on if they are available/loading/what have you.

Unfortunately even though I have isolated the light chambers with walls built into the model, there was still a lot of light bleed; 

20200302_212755 (1).jpg 

I tried to seal up the chambers by using aluminum tape to make a completely Opaque wall:

20200314_122749.jpg 

However since everything that is not black is essentially a diffuser, the light leaked through the edges of the top plate and ultimately it was not very effective;

20200314_122526.jpg 

I ended up modifying the top plate a bit to allow an "insert" to be printed to create an opaque light barrier in the top plate;

20200314_122822.jpg 

The results were a lot better. There is still some bleed over, and even though its hard to tell in this picture, its much dimmer (sorry for the sideways shot, I could NOT get it to load correctly);

      20200314_123321.jpg 
  For some more perspective, here is with one of the tubes lit:

20200314_123507.jpg 

The Best option would be to connect the walls to the top of the panel, but that would mean a lot of additional work to redo everything, so for right now this is acceptable. Maybe before AAV part II, Ill get it a little more cleaned up.
I have updated my thingiverse entry to include an insert/light break walls that can be printed separately.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4202376



__________________
-Captain of the TSN Gungnir JN-001
-Eastern Front online group member
-My continuing bridge build:
http://artemis.forumchitchat.com/post/immersion-bridge-build-in-progress-7335195?pid=1290158413
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