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makphisto

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Reply with quote  #16 
Tonight I tried a different PC (because at this point, why not). It made no difference.

There's a knob on the back of the can light that I can dial up and down, but it appears to do nothing. I don't know what that's about. Gah!
Voice

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Reply with quote  #17 
I'm not an expert by any means, but I seem to recall seeing in another thread that Artemis only tries to do DMX stuff through COM1.

See if you can figure out what else has claimed a COM port, and reassign them.
William

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Reply with quote  #18 

makphisto would you please try and experiment.

 

Please set your light to dip switches 1 and 10 to on.     xl35 mini par

All others off.

 

If this was your code.

Quote:
<event type="NORMAL_CONDITION_1" continuous="yes">

    <!-- steady soft white light -->

    <timeblock mseconds="1000">

      <setvalue index="0" value="140" change="0"/>

      <!-- strobe value of first light box -->

      <setvalue index="1" value="255" change="0"/>

      <!-- brightness value of first light box -->

      <setvalue index="2" value="0" change="0"/>

      <!-- red value of first light box -->

    <setvalue index="3" value="255" change="0"/>

      <!-- green value of first light box -->

    </timeblock>

  </event>

 

Please change to

 

 

Quote:

<event type="NORMAL_CONDITION_1" continuous="yes">

    <!-- steady white light -->

    <timeblock mseconds="1000">

      <setvalue index="0" value="159" change="0"/>

      <!-- mode value of Light -->

      <setvalue index="1" value="0" change="0"/>

      <!-- brightness value of light -->

      <setvalue index="2" value="0" change="0"/>

      <!-- red value of first light box -->

      <setvalue index="3" value="0" change="0"/>

      <!-- green value of first light box -->

 

      <setvalue index="4" value="0" change="0"/>

      <!-- blue value of first light box -->

 

    </timeblock>

  </event>

 
 

 This example I'm offsetting channel numbers. The light describes channel 1 through five and I'm converting 0 to 4. if you do not see a light you should also test using the lights specific channels one through five. setting value 0 to 0 and  setting value 1 to 159.


Screen Shot 2016-05-31 at 1.32.04 PM.png 

notsabbat

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Reply with quote  #19 

Kind of wanted to get back to this thread;

So I have been working on getting some PCs working for my bridge the last couple of days. In the process I installed DMX programs on three machines.

The COM port defaulted to 3 on all of them, it was not the first COM port in all cases, though that didn't seem to make a difference. Oddly every computer installed the driver for the adapter automatically, while in the past I had to manually install it (I changed from Windows 7 Pro fr Windows 7 ultimate, maybe that's why).

usb com.png 

I also used these settings for xlights to test (though that was working for you)
xlights settings.png 

Then started up a fresh copy of Artemis 2.4 and the DMX worked as intended.

(All steps I know you tried)

I tried a few different things, but could not recreate a situation where Xlights would control the DMX, but Artemis would not control it.

In essence, I still have no idea what is causing you problems  [frown]





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makphisto

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Posts: 15
Reply with quote  #20 
Quote:
makphisto would you please try and experiment.


Tried this, no change.

Quote:
In essence, I still have no idea what is causing you problems


Hah, well, I appreciate the effort.

I have no idea. I even took the light setup over to a techy friend to see if she would have any luck (she didn't). If I knew where the failure was, I'd pivot tactics. Like, if I knew it was the cam causing problems, I'd get another cam! But there's no way to know that because right now the problem is in how Artemis is talking to the DMX system.

If I box this stuff up and mail it to one of you guys and pay you for your time... [smile]
Dave Thaler

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Posts: 445
Reply with quote  #21 
I don't see anything wrong with your DMXcommands.xml file, assuming you put it in the dat directory rather than the base artemis install directory.   So if that's the case, then it's either a hardware problem (which you said you'd already ruled out) or a problem with Artemis not being able to grab the relevant COM port.

If you're at a dead end, you might try installing Artemis Bridge Tools and using the "Test Active" feature to see if that works or not, just to narrow down the problem.  (Your file already passes the Validate check it does.)  For example, if you use emulated devices rather than physical devices, does it work or not?  If you enable logging to a socket and you telnet to that port, (or if you instead enable logging to a file), do you see the events firing when Artemis is running?
mongotuslan

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Posts: 26
Reply with quote  #22 
I think I am missing something very basic on DMX.  
I am using Artemis Bridge Tools
http://www.armidalesoftware.com/Artemis/DMXTools.htm

I am just starting off with one can light. 

Zitrades Portable 86 led RGB Magic dmx disco lamp sound activated lighting 4 channels DMX512
• Professional high power 4 Channel DMX-512 LED stage light

• Built-in automated programs and sound activated programs.
• Individual control of RED , GREEN and BLUE LEDs.
• Static color and RGB color mixing with or without DMX controller

Specifications: Color:Black 

Housing : Aluminum Steel
Light source: 86pcs ultra bright LEDs--Red: 44pcs, Green: 21pcs, Blue: 21pcs
Control mode: DMX512, Sound, Auto, Master/slave

I am controlling it with 
Enttec Opendmx USB

The only response I get is for NORMAL_CONDITION_1, and it is just a mixture of red and green, not white like it is supposed to be. The other cues just make it go dark (e.g., red alert). I changed the device configuration from dmx-3ch to dmx-4ch, ant tried RGB, BGR, and others, but it always gives the same thing. It works the same in the game. 

The help for device configuration Artemis Bridge Tools is just not very helpful.  I need to know for this light can what to put in the device configuration for: 

ID
First Channel
# Channel
Order
#Output
Device Type
Param Type
Param

Thanks!


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notsabbat

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Reply with quote  #23 
Good news is that if youre getting changes in response to the game, in any way, then your hardware is probably fine.

On first thought; it sounds like the jumpers in the back of the device are not configured correctly. make sure jumper number 1 is on and all others are off. The jumpers select your starting channel and if they are off, then it will cause a problem like that.




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mongotuslan

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Reply with quote  #24 
I have tried a number of different settings on the back switches.  Number 10 puts it in a local control mode.  Switch one makes it responsive , but with wrong colors, and most annoying, red alert makes it go dark. 

Do I need to load drivers from Enttec for this?  I tried hooking the light up to another computer and running a server on that computer, and the light stayed dark.  It worked on this computer without Enttec drivers, but I tried installing the Enttec drivers and it made no difference. 

I have 4 of these lights, and I tried another one but it did the same thing. 

I am missing something very fundamental here, but the help for ArtemisDmxEditor seems to assume that the light and USB interface just work and go on from there.  What am I missing?

Thanks!

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notsabbat

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Reply with quote  #25 

I dont have any direct experience with the Enttec Opendmx USB, but I think your hardware is fine. since it is receiving and changing with cues from bridge tools (though not the way you intend), its getting signal through the Enttec Opendmx USB and through the cable into the device. In my experience, if that is happening, your hardware is fine. 


If it is responding to DMX signals, but the colors are lighting up right, it is likely that the channel signals that are being sent out are not matching to the channels you have the light set up to.

for example; You have a 4 channel light. If you have the #1 jumper in the back of the light set to "on" and all others set to "off", the first channel on your light will be channel #1 and end on channel 5 (1+4channels=channel 5). Each of these channels will be a different color.  generally for a 4 channel device 1-3 will RGB and channel 4 will be white (though in this case, looking at the product information, it doesn't say anything about a white light, so Im not sure what the 4th channel is for).

If bridge tools is sending a signal along three channels, but those channels are 3,4,5, and your device is set for channel 1,2,3,4, then channels 3 and 4 will light up, but not 1 and 2. This could mean that you want the light to be white by combining red green and blue, but your only getting one or two of the colors, kind of what seems like is going on with your light.

There are a couple things that could be going on that could cause the channels to be mismatched, if that is what is going on.

1. The DMX device does not have its channels set where they need to be.

2. The signal being sent out is not for the correct channels

3. You have a weird DMX device where one of the channels doesn't do anything (which may be possible since only 3 colors are listed).

1. I know Ive already said this, but make sure that the DMX lights jumpers have #1 set at on and the rest at off. This will make sure that the device starts at channel 1

2. we have to make sure that the signal being sent out is for channels 1-4.  Lets look at your device configuration i Artemis bridge tools. Does it look like this? Make sure the first channel is "1" and # of channels is "4" Device type should adjust itself to dmx-4ch
dmx2.png 
 

now lets look at you DMX commands:
Make sure the DMX profile is the one with the dmx 4ch device in it.
Create a new DMX command profile if you need to make the cue "normal condition" or "always on".
make sure the device is L1 (or the device name of the dmx 4ch if you changed it) and click change.

make it look like this. It will hit all the channels and make sure they are at full brightness.

 

dmx2.png 
Make the DMX command profile active and test. If you put the cue as "always on" it should light up. If you made it "normal condition" click apply and it will come on white (or kinda white depending on your light). 

If it lights up, play around with the different channels to see what they all do (generally the one marked intensity is white, but it can vary). This will also be how to tell if your light has a quirky channel. Tell us what you found out.

If it doesn't work, tell us what happened and we will try something else

 

 

********note***********************

DMX is super cool when you get it working, but there is a lot of trial and error and lots of points of failure to work through to get there. Have patience and it will work out

 

 

 



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mongotuslan

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Posts: 26
Reply with quote  #26 
I did some experimenting using AtemisDMXEditor, and the results were weird at first.  I can get the can to change colors, but they aren't what I ask for.  All primary colors are dark: Red, Blue and Green.  So I tried multi-color combinations. 

White activates red and green, which is yellow
Yellow, supposed to be red and green, activates just red.
Cyan, supposed to be red and blue, activates just green.
Magenta, supposed to be green and blue, is dark. 
This was with the device profile set for 3 channel DMX (dmx-3ch). 

I think I figured out what the problem was.  When I changed to 4 channel DMX (dmx-4ch), the device command added a new row: "Transparent".  This defaults to a check box in the one column (different color selection had the box checked in different columns), which greys out the column.  This gave me results similar to the above.  I went back and unchecked all boxes in this row, and now the can works in agreement with the colors I select for it in the DMS command dialog.  The reason why I wasn't seeing blue was that the blue column was selected to be "Transparent". 

/rant on
WTF is this "feature" supposed to be for?  Where is this documented?  It took me many hours to discover this booby trap. 
/rant off

I hope this tidbit will help others.

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notsabbat

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Reply with quote  #27 
"Transparent" is awesome if you just want to change one color rather than all of them. For instance, I have a single light on the front of my bridge that I use as an indicator for a lot of stuff. When we are docked it goes yellow, when the shields are up it flashes blue, when we are in red alert it flashes red. When multiple states exist, it blends them. I use the transparent option for this so each state only effects one color. If we have shields on and also red alert it will add red to the blue causing it to change from blue to purple and back again. If I had declared a value for blue under the red alert condition rather than making it transparent, it would just overwrite the shield effect and I wouldn't get that cool blue/purple transition.



glad you got it all sorted though.

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mongotuslan

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Reply with quote  #28 
Quote:
Originally Posted by notsabbat
"Transparent" is awesome if you just want to change one color rather than all of them.


Thanks for the explanation.  This does sound awesome, and I will have to try it.  My issue is not with the software or the features, but with the documentation.

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QuarterMaG

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Reply with quote  #29 
Hi, Greetings from Germany
I am not sure if this thread is still "active" and contains problems for someone, but i had the same problems today. So i decided to write down what i learned today [wink]

I got the same XL35-Can, and after a 2-year-break i decided to dust off my can for an upcoming Event.
I spend 3 hours figuring out DMX again, and had the same problems as the guys here in the thread.

Finally i got it, or at least i got the "NORMAL_CONDITION_1" - Event working. The events in the game like Shields and red alert should now be as easy as this, but i am missing a PC to get the game started, since the mobile version is not active anymore. So i cant test any more events right now.

But here are the DMX-Commands for that wicked XL35-Mini-PAR-Light - i did not use Artemis DMX Editor, as i could not get it to work properly.

- Put the Pins 1 and 10 on your can to "on", the others to "off"

To the DMXCommand-File:

- On every event, Channel 0 is, as it is stated in the pdf, a strobe (value 16-79 - it looks like it strobes the light that you set on channels 2-4), a plain white flashing light (value 80-160) and the light you want at value 161-255. What to do: Set Channel 0 to a value of 200 if you want to have a normal light (see example below), or around 50 when you want a strobe. Forget the rest.

  <setvalue index="0" value="200" change="0"/>
      <!-- What kind of light i want -->

- Channel 1 is only there for the intensity of the light. A value on ~5 is almost dark, and ~250 is pretty much as bright as possible. What to do: Set Channel 1 to a value you like. Nothing wrong with 250.

  <setvalue index="1" value="250" change="0"/>
      <!-- Intensity of the light -->

- Here comes the kicker: You NEED those two channels all the time, everytime. You seem to cannot miss them, you cannot just set your RGB-Colors, you need them forever - that knowledge came back to me during my trial&error today. Its not a big deal if you know it, but your settings for every event has at least 5 items. Channel 0 for the type, channel 1 for intensity, and finally....

- Channels 2, 3, 4 : RGS as usual

  <setvalue index="2" value="226" change="0"/>
      <!-- red  value of first light box -->
      <setvalue index="3" value="0" change="0"/>
      <!-- green value of first light box -->
      <setvalue index="4" value="112" change="0"/>
      <!-- blue value of first light box -->

If you light up "NORMAL_CONDITION_1" with those settings, you should have a simple color when you start the server, and if you are from germany (and maybe from the US), then you also know where i work [wink]
Just leave channels 0 and 1 as they are and play with the RGB-Settings for different lights. I will later test more events, but the main problem as "why does it not play the color i want" should/could be solved here for good.


Quote:
Originally Posted by notsabbat

********note***********************

DMX is super cool when you get it working, but there is a lot of trial and error and lots of points of failure to work through to get there. Have patience and it will work out


I almost quit. Almost.... 😉


Greetings, QuarterMaG
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