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Arrew

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Reply with quote  #1 
Hi... and sorry for my ignorance.

I know this must be here somewhere but you have to understand how thick I am. I'm more of an idea guy with the practical skills of a dead fish and this DMX stuff looks cool but I dont know how to put it together. And if Im honest I hardly understand what you guys are talking about...

I have NO engineering or electrical skills, BUT let us imagine that I live in a country where there are a lot of very cheep electronics. So can I buy my gear. What do I need?

1. The Artemis game makes weird signals that can be used to turn on lights and stuff.

2. I need to attach a controller to the PC to get it to work.
    I think that's what this is right?
temp1.jpg 

3. I plug a special DMX light in.
     like this one right?
temp2.jpg 

And thats it done? Hardware wise?

Is that right?
How do I set up the software?
How do smoke machines work?


Am I even in the right ballpark with this?

Thanks for your patience and responses.



Randal

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Reply with quote  #2 
Hi Arrew,

   You are in the ballpark. Now you just need to get to the home plate.

  • Only a controller that is based on Enttec Open DMX-512 will work as far as I know. I tried the Enttec Pro and it wouldn't. It has to be "Open".
  • After that you need to set the address (the dip switches on the back of the light) to the channel you want to start with, and usually switch 10 has to be "on".
  • Lastly you will have to change the file "dmxcommands.xml" in your artemis/dat folder to match. The only thing is that you have to subtract 1 from each number because the lights are always 1 - 512 and the file is always 0 - 511.
  • A caveat: It has been a struggle with me. I still have four lights that don't work right and two that do and I don't know why. I'm going to experiment with them this weekend.

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sircastor

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Reply with quote  #3 
I don't know a lot about this, but I'd read elsewhere that it was only FTDI-based controllers - which was why older Arduino Models worked. Do we have enough information to correlate what works and why?
Arrew

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Reply with quote  #4 
See you two have scared me now. I'm afraid I'm not smart enough for this. Wish I could just buy it, copy a file, plug it in and it'd work.

Afraid I'll buy a bunch of stuff which will be useful only as paper weights...
Badgeguy

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Reply with quote  #5 
Arrew,

There is one, and only one, solution that is guaranteed to work and is plug and play (No soldering, no wiring, no programming), PERIOD.

It is the Enttec Open DMX USB (http://www.enttec.com/index.php?main_menu=Products&pn=70303&show=description).

Not the PRO, Not Enttec compatible devices, *ONLY* the Enttex Open DMX USB.

The link above is to the cheapest price available on the web, at time of this post is $70 (pre-tax & pre-shipping).

The device needs a plug and play adapter to convert from the 5-pin to 3-pin standard for most DMX compatible lights.

That adapter is available here: http://www.enttec.com/index.php?main_menu=Products&pn=70029&show=description and is $15 (pre-tax & pre-shipping).

The reason for all of the compatibility issues is that Artemis was programmed to look for specific drivers for a specific USB to FTDI chipset convertor, the RS485 interface.

Many devices will state that they are USB to DMX compatible, but they lack the FTDI/RS485 communication layer that Artemis requires.  The other devices will still control DMX lighting, but through other software such as Q Light Controller.  This means nothing to Artemis as it can only speak one language out of the box, RS485/FTDI.

Yes, there are other devices that have been discovered other than the Enttec Open DMX USB, that appear to be viable solutions, such as:

http://www.ftdichip.com/Products/Cables/USBRS485.htm
http://www.holidaycoro.com/mobile/Product.aspx?id=37787
http://stevenbreuls.com/2013/05/diy-usb-dmx-dongle-interface-for-under-10/
First generation Arduino boards,

but none of them are simple plug and play to work right out of the shipping box.  Some require soldering, some circuit building, some programming.

Once you have the DMX controller, you are half way there.  The other half is at least one cable and one light.

DMX cables are abundant and easy to find.  I go to Amazon for mine:

5 foot: http://www.amazon.com/Accu-Cable-Ac3Pdmx5-Five-Foot/dp/B0013Y033Q/
10 foot: http://www.amazon.com/Accu-Cable-Ac3Pdmx10-Foot-True/dp/B0013Y0340/
25 foot: http://www.amazon.com/Accu-Cable-Ac3Pdmx25-Twenty-Five/dp/B001LXMXU0/

The last item is a DMX compatible device.  This can be anything DMX controllable, but for the plug and play experience you are looking for, it needs to be a can light.

My go to light is no longer available from Amazon (I just found this out and am really bummed as I was considering picking up a few more to increase the amount of light in the room.)

http://www.amazon.com/Omez-Group-OM103-Par38-FloodPar/dp/B007RE6614/ref=sr_1_51?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1364521299&sr=1-51&keywords=led+par+38

It looks like this will have to be the fall back for my example:

RGB 86 LEDs DMX Stage Light ($32 with prime):
http://www.amazon.com/Stage-Lights-Disco-Ballroom-Wedding/dp/B00JF0A5GK/ref=sr_1_4?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1415684413&sr=1-4&keywords=dmx+par+can


Yes, you will need to make sure that the dip switches are in the right places.  For this light, I believe that it would be #10 up and all others down to work with the built-in DMXcommands.xml file.

Lastly, you really should get a Terminator to make sure that the signals are clean.

Here, $7 with prime: http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-DMT-414-DMX512-XLR3M-Terminator/dp/B000PO1H94/

Of course, you will need to install the drivers for the Enttec Open DMX USB and set the dip switches, but once that is done, it is a matter of just plugging it all in and it will work.

UPDATE:
Per HerrVlkr's posting in this thread:

http://artemis.forumchitchat.com/post/show_single_post?pid=1285047045&postcount=1

I will say that there might be another plug and play USB to DMX device. 

http://www.amazon.com/USB2-0-Interface-Adapter-Converter-Chipset/dp/B008BZBJ92

The only difference is that it utilizes an RJ-45 connector rather than a XLR3 3-pin DMX connector.  You then should be able to use something like this (Note: I have not tested nor ever used this type of setup!!!):

http://www.amazon.com/DMX-Female-RJ-45-Adapter-EHS-Built/dp/B00ONB55AC

to convert to the XLR3 3-pin standard, or use a standard Cat5 cable and find an RJ-45 compatible light (of which I have not personally seen any).

If you are converting to XLR3, the XLR3 terminator mentioned above is still a really good idea.  If you are staying with an RJ45 connection, you might think about picking up an RJ45 terminator:

http://www.ecolocityled.com/product/dmx_signal_terminator_rj45/dmx_led_controls
http://www.cpoint-lighting.com/products/product_RJ45terminator/index.htm

even if you do not have 3 or more devices in the line.  Better safe than sorry.

The only warning I would have for this type of setup is to not confuse which cables are being plugged into which devices as you could be applying live electrical current from the USB port into devices that are not expecting current, such as network adapters.  You could let out the magic smoke, and that is very difficult to get back into devices.

I will have to definitely look into this adapter as my IC9813 to DMX converter uses both XLR3 3-pin DMX and RJ-45 for inputs/outputs.  It would make setup a great deal easier and cheaper and at $14.97.

If anyone else is using this specific adapter, I would love to hear your experience with it.
sircastor

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Reply with quote  #6 
This last post should really be a sticky... great information BadgeGuy
Arrew

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Reply with quote  #7 
What's that? Weird spam?

Be calm...
BigEd

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Reply with quote  #8 
I calm...
jimmy1979

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Reply with quote  #9 
You are in trouble with hard controller.please try use 24 Channel DMX decoder.operation is very simple[smile]
Tec

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Reply with quote  #10 
I need some help to for dmx too ^^

The initial Signal from Artemis is on startup clean white, correct? 
(channel 1 power up 100%)
(channel 2 power up 100%)
(channel 3 power up 100%)

My current state is flicker or a full white on a 48 channel LED pixel tube,

(http://www.thomann.de/de/eurolite_led_dmx_pixel_tube_16_rgb_ip20.htm?gclid=CObXxaey78YCFcPMtAodJvsDSQ)

by starting up Artemis.
( Thats indicate minimum a Signal from Artemis to the Cable. )
( Thats alone makes my hard fly XD )

To get this, i have soldert a XLR Adapter and the USB 5V TTL Cabel to one thing. ( Hopefully that 5V hight enough is for dmx pegel, wiki says yes.)

So my question is. How has the light to show up on start and in game by Artemis on default.
Have some forgotten? Maybe a amplifier? Or is my Signal from the chip to decode to DMX ?

Update:

Seems to be Solved

I need a Terminator, today does a 100Ohm resistor

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